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‘The Politics of Societal Digestion’ (Delfina Foundation) – Tomáš Uhnák’s fascinating tour of London’s alternative food world

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As part of Delfina Foundation’s program The Politics of Food: Markets and Movements, artist Tomáš Uhnák organised a day-long walk that showcased the city’s alternative ways of food distribution and consumption — all in different locations and involving various characters who joined us along the way. By the end of the day, the whole affair…

Sofia Gurevich | September 17, 2016
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Berneliu Uzeiga Lithuanian Restaurant, Leytonstone, reviewed by Agne Dovydaityte

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Lithuania, they say, is a society built on potatoes. Almost all Lithuanian national dishes are made from them: boiled, mashed, grated, roast, stuffed, potato pancakes, potato pie… For a lover of Asian cuisine our dishes would probably taste unbearably bland and contain much too much fat: something the average Lithuanian, working in the fields, once…

Agne Dovydaityte | May 20, 2015
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Robin Ashenden reviews Tbilisi Georgian Restaurant on Holloway Road

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Russia may have had its issues with Georgia over the centuries, but rarely with Georgian food, many of the most popular restaurants in Moscow hailing from the Caucasus. In the Soviet time Georgia was the supreme provider of fruit and vegetables for the whole Empire: aubergines, citrus fruit, peppers and walnuts all grew here, and…

Robin Ashenden | August 12, 2014
'Kavarma' - photo by Jeroen Kransen (Own work) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Ian Mole reviews Bolyary Bulgarian Restaurant, Palmer’s Green

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Bulgarian cuisine is a mix of European and near-Eastern influences, especially Turkish. Being a fertile country with a wide range of vegetables and fruits, it’s famous for the variety of its tasty salads. With its long coastline, fish and seafood dishes are also popular. Other distinctive items are cold and hot soups, a lot of…

Ian Mole | June 4, 2014
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Robin Ashenden reviews Restaurant Daquise, South Kensington

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Those of us who’ve known Restaurant Daquise for decades felt desolated when it was taken over and given a refit in 2009. The old Daquise, for all its faults, was one of the most loveable places in London, with its post-war down-at-heel quality – all plywood and formica – and its Christmassy air of warmth.…

Robin Ashenden | May 26, 2014
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Robin Ashenden reviews the Gay Hussar Restaurant, Soho

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The Gay Hussar, a Soho institution and the only Hungarian restaurant in Britain, has been in the news much over the last couple of years. In Autumn 2013 a decision by Corus hotel group  to sell the place drew loud protests from its loyal habitués.  A press-campaign was started to preserve the restaurant, where leftish…

Robin Ashenden | May 15, 2014

Robin Ashenden reviews Tatra Polish Restaurant, 24 Goldhawk Road.

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Tatra is a Polish restaurant in Goldhawk Road that comes garlanded with recommendations. It won the Archant Food and Drink award for Best Modern European Restaurant in 2009 and has scarcely looked back since, with numerous listings in ‘100 Best of’  Restaurant Guides, and a healthy crop of internet-salutes from happy diners. But from my…

Robin Ashenden | May 13, 2014
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Robin Ashenden reviews Dracula House Restaurant, Harlesden.

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Londoners used to sleek décor in their restaurants will probably not take kindly to Dracula House Restaurant in Harlesden. Walking through its door is not so much entering a time-warp as crossing from one side of Europe to the other. The white linen-rectangles on its limp pink table-cloths, the cruet-sets and little triangles of serviette…

Robin Ashenden | May 11, 2014
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Romanian Food expert Nicolae Klepper writes about his country’s cuisine

The question “What’s Romania’s cuisine like?” is not an easy question to answer, because Romania’s cuisine is the product of a whole series of historic, geographic, and religious influences. The result is a rich variety of specialties – from the tasty, hearty, and nutritious dishes of the peasant and shepherd, to the gastronomic, French influenced,…

Robin Ashenden | May 5, 2014
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London’s Little Sofia – by Ian Mole

The Pressure Group Migrationwatch predicted, at the end of last year, that a combined figure of 50,000 Romanians and Bulgarians would arrive each year in the UK once restrictions were lifted in January. However, this forecast now belongs to the same category as bird and swine flu: the influx has failed to take place and…

Robin Ashenden | May 4, 2014